EmuLite (palm oil-free) -20%

Natural W/O emulsifier
The W/O emulsifier for incredibly light textures. Easy to process and highly stable, even without additional co-emulsifiers.

INCI
Tri(Polyglyceryl-3/Lauryl) Hydrogenated Trilinoleate

Natural cosmetics compliant
NATRUE certified

Item number
EM010 

Note: in-stock batch has a re-test date of 01/27
What does re-test date mean? Click here for the blog post 

 

Characteristics

W/O emulsions that succeed and feel excellent.

Water-in-oil emulsions are characterized by special properties and a targeted nourishing effect, but also require special attention during production. Find out more about W/O emulsions and what makes them so special here.

EmuLite is not an emulsifier blend (main emulsifier + co-emulsifier), but a single raw material with an amazing effect. W/O emulsifiers allow a water phase to be enclosed in oil. Many natural emulsifiers for this purpose are not strong enough on their own to hold the water and thus create stable W/O emulsions.

The special molecular structure of EmuLite has a particularly stabilizing effect at the interface between water and oil. This allows the water phase to be incorporated into the oil phase and held there permanently.

Unlike traditional W/O emulsifiers, EmuLite also creates lighter emulsions with a high water content. Theoretically, it is possible to emulsify up to 90% water phase. Such a high internal phase leads to a so-called "quick-break effect." With this, the water is released immediately upon applying the emulsion to the skin, and the cooling effect of the released water can be felt on the skin. However, emulsions are easier to make with a slightly higher oil phase of approx. 15 - 20%.

Co-emulsifiers can be used, but depending on the formulation, they are not strictly necessary. Glyceryl caprylate can be used for easier emulsion formation and incorporation of the water phase, but too high an amount of glyceryl caprylate in relation to EmuLite can lead to phase separation. Waxblend Hydrosoft also acts like a W/O emulsifier and can therefore be used as a co-emulsifier, but it only offers limited heat stability because its melting point is not particularly high.

Salts are generally recommended to stabilize the emulsion. Magnesium sulfate is particularly recommended, but sodium chloride is also suitable. One of these two should be present in every W/O emulsion.

We recommend Flexibond as a thickener and stabilizer for the oil phase. It provides consistency while creating flexible structures. This keeps the oil phase well-enclosed in the water phase, gives the emulsion heat stability, and ensures the skin feel remains light and non-waxy.

EmuLite can be processed cold, but it should still be slightly warmed to make it easier to dissolve in the oil phase. During the actual emulsification process, it is usually advisable to use low temperatures where the oil phase has already developed a slight (viscous) consistency. This way, the water phase remains better within the oil phase, and phase separation does not occur as easily.

W/O emulsions with EmuLite are particularly recommended for sunscreen formulations with mineral UV filters, such as our SolarZinc, as it keeps the pigments evenly distributed in the formulation while simultaneously providing water resistance to the product. Both are important for effective sun protection!

Recommended concentration and processing

• 1 - 3 %
  
• dissolve in the oil phase (warm slightly if necessary)
  
• HLB value: approx. 1.5

Features at a glance

• forms relatively light W/O emulsions
  
• low concentration required
• no further emulsifiers needed
  
• cold processing possible
• allows for high internal water phases (up to 90%!)
  
• perfect for mineral sunscreen formulations
  

Included in the following recipe suggestions