L-Arginine
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Active ingredient and additive for pH value
Arginine is a basic and slightly cationic amino acid that is primarily used to increase and buffer (stabilize) the pH value, but also as a nourishing active ingredient for skin and hair.
Natural cosmetics compliant
INCI
Arginine
Item number
ADD013
Characteristics
The multifunctional amino acid.
The pH value of a cosmetic product is essential for many properties such as preservation, skin compatibility, consistency, and active ingredient stability. Usually, it needs to be lowered with an acid, such as citric acid, and in rarer cases, increased.
However, the pH value should always be buffered—that is, stabilized—to prevent it from changing over a longer period of time. To do this, one can use an alkali, which converts part of the acid into a salt (e.g., sodium citrate in the case of citric acid).
Click here to learn more about adjusting the pH value!
Another option is the amino acid arginine. Contrary to its name, it does not act as an acid, but as a base. It can be used to increase the pH value, while simultaneously stabilizing it. Therefore, it is advisable to always use, for example, some citric acid and arginine in a product. This allows the pH value to be adjusted and buffered. It is recommended to use at least approx. 10% of the citric acid amount in arginine.
But arginine can do even more: It belongs not only to the basic amino acids but also to the cationic ones. It therefore carries a positive charge in the molecule and can thus attach perfectly to the negatively charged surface of the skin and hair and unfold its nourishing properties.
Like many amino acids, it has a water-binding effect and can be used as a moisturizing active ingredient. Due to its small molecular size, it also penetrates into deeper layers of the skin, where it can effectively retain moisture. When used as an active ingredient, it can also be dosed slightly higher. With a large amount of acid (e.g., in fruit acid products), it may well be necessary to dose it highly.
Furthermore, it promotes skin cell proliferation and is involved in the synthesis of collagen and elastin. Therefore, it is also useful to use it in regenerating or wound-healing products, as well as in products intended to strengthen the skin barrier.
These properties make it interesting for more than just pH regulation. Arginine is a truly multifunctional active ingredient for skin and hair that should not be missing from any water-based product.
Usage concentration and processing
- 0.01+ % to adjust the pH value
- 0.1 - 0.5 % as an active ingredient
Features at a glance
- basic amino acid
- natural - obtained from fermentation
- increases the pH value
- for neutralizing acid-based raw materials
- buffers the pH value
- cationic - adheres to skin and hair
- moisturizing, protective, and barrier-strengthening
Included in the following formulation examples
