Hydromollient, palm oil-free

Lipid component
The ideal lipid for natural and innovative cosmetic products that effectively retain skin moisture while providing an extra-soft skin feel. Smoothing, protective, hardly greasy, and fast-absorbing - perfect in skin oils and emulsions.

 

INCI
Isostearyl Isostearate

Natural cosmetics compliant
ECOCERT and COSMOS certified

Item number
LIP005 

 

Characteristics

A slow-spreading, natural lipid (derived from rapeseed) that works in synergy with the skin barrier through an innovative mechanism, effectively protecting the skin against moisture loss.

An intact skin barrier is the foundation of healthy, soft skin. Moisture naturally evaporates from our skin constantly (transepidermal water loss = TEWL). To minimize this moisture loss, cosmetics have always utilized so-called occlusives—substances that are "somewhat sealing," forming a film on the skin to keep water locked in. A long-proven standard raw material capable of this is petrolatum (Vaseline). However, this has fallen into disrepute due to its petrochemical origin. Furthermore, it feels very greasy and is not very breathable.

Hydromollient is an innovative ester oil produced from rapeseed oil. Its long-chain molecules arrange themselves in a special, dense structure with the skin's own lipids and can thus effectively protect the skin. Surprisingly, this film does not feel greasy or "sealing" on the skin at all, but rather acts like an invisible protective shield that leaves nothing behind but soft and nourished skin. Studies with Hydromollient have shown that it reduces TEWL even better than occlusive petrolatum.

Apart from its active-like properties, Hydromollient is also an interesting lipid component because it brings particularly appealing sensory properties. It spreads more slowly and feels slightly richer upon application than many plant oils, yet it penetrates the skin very quickly and does not feel greasy or oily at all. Instead, it quickly forms a smooth, protective film that feels very soft and provides long-lasting nourishment to the skin. Due to its branched fatty acid structure, it is still easy to distribute on the skin and even supports other substances that are usually difficult to spread, such as butters, waxes, and fast-drying (linoleic acid-rich) plant oils (e.g., Oilblend Superfruit).

This special property makes it, among other things, the perfect lipid for hand and eye creams. But it also demonstrates its strengths in other emulsions and body oils and is considered very pleasant, especially by dry skin types. In combination with other oils or special emulsifiers (e.g., Emulblend Bee), very interesting textures with a moisture-retaining effect can be realized. To improve the spreadability of Hydromollient on the skin, we recommend combining it with Squalane or Lipoblend Ultralite. In sticks and balms, Hydromollient has a non-greasy effect and improves the overall skin feel.

Due to its long-chain structure, Hydromollient is also used in hair care. It noticeably increases combability and has an extremely conditioning and softening effect on the hair structure.

Usage concentration and processing

• 4 – 30% in skin products (10% for the proven moisturizing effect)
• 0.5 – 3% in hair products
• use as part of the oil phase

Special features at a glance

• strengthens the skin barrier and effectively protects against dehydration
• quickly forms a smooth film on the skin and does not migrate (eye cream!)
• perfect for products for dry skin, body oils, balms, and hand creams
• hair-conditioning properties and improved combability
• ultimately hydrating properties in combination with Lipoblend Hydrosoft
• odorless and colorless
• produced from rapeseed oil (palm oil-free)